Cycling in Canberra

Canberra has a an active population of magpies who are eagerly protecting their nests in Spring.

It is important to remember that they are just protecting their young. Here is an article about what to do if you encounter an aggressive magpie on your ride.

You can also report active magpies to ACT Parks and Conservation Service Rangers on (02) 62072113 (Northside) and (02) 62072087 (Southside) or add your encounter to the map at Magpiealert.

1. Plan your route

If you are new to cycling or haven’t been on the bike for a while, your best bet is to plan your ride. Work out the route that works best for you. Whether it’s a direct route that includes riding on roads, or a more scenic journey along Canberra’s many cycle paths – find a route that you’ll enjoy. Plan and ride your route on a weekend when you’re relaxed and not in a rush, so you know what to expect.

Transport Canberra’s journey planner will help you find different route options from home to work by bike, bus, and/or light rail. There are also other online mapping tools like www.mapmyride.com.au, and www.openstreetmap.org

2. Start small

Start with an achievable distance and frequency, and build from there if you choose to. Try riding part of the way and increase the distance over time. Try riding to work one day, and home the next. Give yourself some rest days between rides.

If you think the distance is out of reach, you might like to use Park and Pedal – you can park your car for free and ride the rest of the way. Or try combining cycling with bus travel by parking your bike at a Bike and Ride. Most buses have a bike rack on the front so you can break up a longer journey with a bus ride.

If riding to work isn’t for you – because of logistics, or trip chaining, or distance, think of a different journey that you could do by bike instead. Maybe you can ride to the local shops once a week, or to a friend’s house? Have a think about what works for you.

3. Be safe, be seen

Obey the road rules and make sure you are visible to other road users. Ride predictably and signal your movements. Whether you are riding on a path or the road, always stay alert and pay attention to and respect other riders, pedestrians and drivers.

Light coloured clothing is best for visibility. If you are riding near dusk or at night, you might like light to invest in hi-visibility or reflective clothing. If you will be riding in the dark or in low light conditions, front and rear lights are essential.

4. Show your bike some love

Dust off your bike, pump up those tyres and make sure your bike is ready to ride! If it hasn’t been used for a while, it might need servicing at your local bike shop. Brush up on basic bike maintenance skills with our bike care tips.

5. Dress for comfort

Ride in clothing you feel comfortable and safe in. Lycra is not necessary!

Consider taking clothes into work and changing there, or storing spare clothes and toiletries at work. Glasses are useful to keep bugs out of your eyes, and gloves will come in handy as the weather cools down.

6. Lock it up

Find out where you can park your bike at your destination and what amenities are available. Is there a secure storage area you could use?

No matter where you keep your bike, its a good idea to make sure it’s locked at all times. Make sure you have a good quality lock (like a D-lock) and practice using it before heading out. Lock your bike securely to an immovable object, as tight as you can, low on the bike, and through multiple components if possible.

A perfect match—you and your bike

Setting up your bike correctly to ensure the correct interface between rider and bike is a crucial foundation for successful riding. The key is to sort out your three contact points: the saddle; pedals; brakes and handlebars. The set up of your saddle and pedals primarily effects ‘power’ while the handlebars are all about control.

Sit on it

Seat height is determined by pedalling efficiency and has nothing to do with being able to touch the ground while sitting in the saddle. To find the right height – put one heel on the pedal at its lowest point while keeping your pelvis square on the saddle. Your leg should be straight. It’s a bit high if your pelvis rocks with each pedal stroke. Adjust the height by flicking over the quick release mechanism at the base of the seat post and unscrewing it a few turns.

There’s an Allen bolt under your seat to adjust its angle. Men tend to find a horizontal setting most comfortable, whereas women generally prefer to angle the nose down slightly (around 5-10° or about 1 cm lower at the front than the back).

The same bolt lets the saddle slide backwards and forwards on its rails—the central position is about right for most people. For techno freaks, spin your cranks to the horizontal position and use a plumb bob to line up the back of your knee cap with the ball of your foot.

Choose a comfortable saddle. It’s an individual thing requiring trial and hopefully not too much error. Beware of the big softie. Shape, base material and rail flex determine comfort, not the amount of foam on top. Women should consider a specific women’s model. There are an increasing number on the market; they tend to be narrower in the front, softer in the nose and wider at the back to better suit a woman’s pelvis shape. Be careful it’s not so wide that you cannot easily slide over the back of the seat on steep descents.

Power to the pedals

The secret to efficient pedalling is an even cadence, pushing down on one pedal while pulling up with the opposite one. Tightening your toe straps helps achieve this. The ultimate solution though is to score some clip-less pedals. You click in and out of these a bit like a ski binding. They can be a bit daunting to come to grips with but are ultimately easier to use and are worth an extra gear, or about 10% extra pedalling power. When setting up your cleats or toe clips, aim to position the pedal spindle under the ball of your foot.

Cycling shoes have a stiffer sole which provides a bigger platform to push on and hence transfer more power to the pedals. They’re a must if you go for clip-less pedals. Cranks come in different lengths; the standard is 175 mm. Riders with shorter legs should consider 170 mm cranks which require less bending and extension of your legs to complete a rotation.

Get a grip

With modern brakes, you only need to use one or at the most two fingers to effectively stop your bike. Think of your hands performing two independent functions: Thumb and outer fingers for holding on, steering and weight transfer. Index and middle fingers control speed.

Controlled riding in difficult terrain is only possible by performing these two functions independently. You’ll probably need to move your brakes towards the centre of the bars so your inside fingers can easily grab the brake at the outside for maximum leverage. This can make combination brake/gear shifters slightly more difficult to reach but in most cases is an acceptable compromise.

Brake lever angle; try them angled down at about 45° to begin with, then adjust them up or down until it feels most comfortable. A good method is to jump on your bike, extend your arms and rest your wrists on the top of the handlebars. Your fingers should rest easily on top of the brake levers.

If you have smaller hands then adjust the brake levers closer to the handlebars by tightening the screw under the brake mechanism.

If your bike doesn’t already have them, you can add bar ends which some people find useful when hill climbing.

The distance from the saddle to handlebars should be comfortable, ie. not too cramped or overstretched when riding. This will be correct if you have the right size frame. It can be adjusted with different length stems but this will change how the bike handles. Keep within a range of 110-130 mm.

Your handlebars should be around 25-75 mm lower than the top of your seat (lower bars are better for hill climbing, higher are better for descending and are more comfortable for your back). Adjust handlebar height by using a stem with a different rise (-5° to 25°) or placing spacers under the stem An easy option for raising the height is to use downhill bars.

Wondering what size bike is right for you or your child? In the following article, Canberra Cyclist editor Julia Widdup demystifies women’s and kids bike sizing and models.

Is there a difference between women’s and men’s bikes?

Nearly all the big bike brands make what they call ‘unisex’ bikes; bikes that they say are designed for all riders.

A lot of brands also make women’s-specific bikes. Often these are mostly the same as the unisex bikes but with different contact points, such as the saddle and handlebar, which will be chosen to suit women better.

When bike shops and brands talk about bike size, they are specifically referring to the size of the frame, so bike size and frame size are often used interchangeably.

Currently, there is no industry standard for sizing bikes, so choosing the correct frame size for you can be confusing, especially since recommended frame sizes vary between manufacturers, models and disciplines.

Bike frame sizes are most commonly listed in centimetres (e.g. 48 cm, 54 cm), inches (e.g. 17 in, 19 in) and in sizes such as small, medium and large.

Generally adult bike sizes are determined by the height of the rider. If you sit between sizes, it’s worth trying both and seeing which one you feel more comfortable on.

Most bike manufacturers have their own size guides for each of the bikes they stock, again using rider height to determine the right size. Test riding a bike before you make a purchase is a quick and easy way to tell if you’re in the right ballpark for size.

Do you need a women’s bike?

Many women find that a women’s-specific bike suits them well, while others get on fine with unisex frames.

Women’s bikes typically include women’s fittings such as a women’s bike saddle and their ranges tend to run to smaller sizes to suit smaller riders. Some women’s bikes are based around a unisex frame with women’s-specific finishing kit, while others have a bespoke geometry designed around women-only body dimension data.

Bikes are sized as small, medium, large, etc (usually mountain bikes and some hybrid bikes), or numerically as centimetres or inches (e.g. 54cm, 17in, etc). Sizing is not consistent across brands so don’t expect one brand’s medium to feel exactly the same as another’s.

Most brands have an online size guide that will recommend a size based on your height, or other measurements such as your inner leg length. Online-only sellers, such as Canyon, will often ask you for a set of body measurements, for example, arm length, to help you find the right size. If buying online, check whether the retailer will allow you to swap components such as the stem and handlebars after purchasing, or whether you’ll have to purchase these separately if needed. Although you can make small adjustments to fit by changing components later, the frame size will be fixed. Take your time and don’t buy a frame that’s the wrong size just because it looks like a bargain.

Every person’s anatomy is different, so everyone will have different fit requirements. For example, if you have short legs (in general or relative to your height), the stand-over height of a frame is important. It may be preferable to ride a smaller frame, or a frame with a more compact geometry, and compensate with a longer stem, increased saddle setback or a combination of both.

Whatever approach a brand has to designing women’s bikes, there are usually a few things they have in common:

• Smaller sizes: Small, X-Small and XX-Small cater for smaller riders. Sometimes these are the small sizes of the men’s/unisex bike, other times they’re a dedicated women’s frame with a unique geometry.

• Lowered top tube: This mostly applies to hybrid or commuter bikes, particularly Dutch or ‘sit up’ bikes. They have a lower or sloping top tube which means it’s easier to stand straddling the frame, making it easier to get on and off.

• Women’s saddle: Women’s bikes usually come with a saddle designed to be comfortable for female riders.

• A shorter reach: This refers to the distance from the saddle to the handlebar. Bikes with a frame designed for female riders will sometimes have a shorter reach compared to equivalent men’s or unisex models. This sometimes results in a more upright position for the rider.

• Shorter crank arms: For riders with shorter legs, shorter crank arms (the part linking the pedals to the spindle around which they move) reduce the stretch that the leg needs around the pedal stroke, which reduces strain and makes pedalling easier. Shorter cranks can also be pedalled faster.

• Narrower handlebar, shallower drops on road handlebar: Narrower handlebars are designed to suit narrower shoulders, and the shallower drop on road handlebars means a shorter reach from the seat to the bar.

• Lighter shock tune: Mountain bikes that feature suspension will have this set up to accommodate the on-average lighter weight of female rider.

Once you have a bike, it’s possible to adjust the fit to make it even better, which is important if you’re going to be riding it a lot because small niggles can turn into big niggles over a long bike ride.

What about your child’s first bike or replacement bike?

Children’s bikes are sized according to their wheel size, not their frame size like adult bikes. You also need to consider is the frame weight. A lightweight frame that places the child in a stable, comfortable riding position is easier to pedal and more enjoyable to ride. Bikes made with alloy frames are typically more expensive than bikes with steel frames but they are lighter, easier to ride, as well as being less prone to rust. The height of the child is more important than the child’s age, however, for simplicity this guide (right) refers to the suitability of the bike relative to approximate age groups.

Children’s bike options:

Balance bikes

A perfect introduction to bikes is a balance bike. This is a two-wheeled bike without pedals that allow children to sit and coast and helps them develop the balance and skills required to ride a bicycle. They have a 12 inch wheel and are suitable for children up to 2 years old

78-94 cm – 12 inch bikes

These are generally suitable for children 2 to 4 years old. These bikes come with training wheels, and may feature a rear push steerer so the child can be assisted or directed when needed.

84-112 cm – 16 inch kids bike

16 inch bikes are generally suitable for children aged 3 to 6 years old. Typically bikes this size will have training wheels and no gears. Around this age children may not have developed a lot of the strength required for riding, so the bike’s weight will be an important consideration.

For older children you may want to consider a 16 inch BMX for a stronger, heavier duty bike.

108-129 cm – 20 inch kids bike

20 inch bikes are generally suitable for kids aged 6 to 10 years. It is also the standard size for a BMX wheel.

They both have no gears and the 20 inch kid’s bike and BMX share a lot of similarities. The main difference between the two is that a kid’s bike will be lighter and easier to ride, and a BMX will be heavier and more durable.

Kid’s bikes are designed in a mountain bike style, whereas BMX are designed more for street and skate park riding. A kid’s bike may be a better option if the child is still learning to ride, while a BMX will be more suitable if the child is already confident – or if they have a tendency to be rough with things.

120-148 cm – 24 inch kids bikes

24 inch geared bikes can suit children aged 8 to 13 years old. 24 inch bikes are designed in a mountain bike style and have features like gears and suspension forks. 24 inch is the second largest of the kids bikes. For taller kids, the next progression would be onto a 26 inch kids bike or an extra small adults mountain bike.

145-160 cm – 26 inch kids bikes

26 inch mountain bikes are suited for kids that are 9 to13 years old. 26 inch bikes typically have gears and suspension forks. 26 inch bikes are the largest of kids bikes before going to an extra small adult bike. Taller kids above 148 cm now have an option to go for a 26 inch kids bikes as opposed to a small adult’s frame. The junior frame style features an easy reach brake lever and other child-friendly features, making them a preferred choice over an extra small adult’s frame for children.

Ever seen a bicycle stuck in a traffic jam?

Some people prefer to use the on-road bike lanes that you find on most of Canberra’s busiest roads, while others prefer to spend a few minutes more away from the noise and stress of traffic, enjoying Canberra’s network of off-road shared bike/walking paths.

Benefits of Cycle Commuting

There is a measurable link between a person’s health and lifestyle, and how productive they are at work. Employees with a poor health status are: nine times more likely than their healthy colleagues to have sick days; have dramatically decreased productivity; and are more likely to suffer from lifestyle-related disorders.

Did you know Australian employees:

• Don’t exercise enough with over 60% highly inactive.

• Have poor diets with greater than 46% consuming high fat intakes during work hours.

• Are overweight with 28% clinically obese and 34% overweight. Obesity costs Australia $21 billion annually and over 7 million Australians are estimated to become obese by 2025.

• Are highly stressed with 53% over-whelmed with stress and pressure. Stress related claims cost Australian business over $200 million annually.

• Are likely to have ‘presenteeism’ whereby employees attend work despite being too sick, tired or stressed to be productive.

Cycle commuting is one of the easiest ways to increase the physical activity of a workforce without dramatically adding to an already time-pressured day. Cycling is a low-impact form of physical activity and is a suitable form of exercise for almost anyone of any level of fitness. Commuting just 30 minutes a day on the bike can:

• Provide all the exercise you need to halve the chance of becoming obese or diabetic.

• Control stress, anxiety and depression by increasing natural endorphins.

• Help prevent heart disease, stroke, high blood pressure and some cancers.

• Help build and maintain healthy bones, muscles and joints.

Further benefits to the workforce are:

Decreased traffic congestion around the workplace. Fostering cycling in the workplace is a way of promoting your organization as an employee-friendly workplace that takes the environment seriously. Cycling just 10km each way to work instead of driving saves 1.3 tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions each year (Bicycle Network Australia).

Decreased need for parking spaces as 10 bicycles can be parked in one car space. This can save up to $14500 which is the average cost of building one car space in a multi-level complex.

Reduce car fleet, taxi and petrol costs to the workplace.

If you are an employer or manager, there are myriad benefits to fostering a cycle-friendly workplace:

Employee health and productivity.

• People who ride to work are fit, healthy and motivated, and take significantly fewer sick days than other employees. Exercise improves focus and concentration, which in turn improves productivity

Parking

• Workplaces with strong cycling cultures can benefit from investing less in providing employee parking, since fewer spaces are needed. The Alfred Hospital in Melbourne converted 19 unneeded parking spaces into an Active Travel Zone which includes bike parking and end-of-trip facilities such as showers and lockers.

• Employees who spend less on public or commercial parking facilities will be happy at having more disposable income.

Transport costs and times

• Workplaces that encourage the use of bicycles for work travel can save on their transport budgets.

• Bicycle travel times are more predictable during peak hours than other transport modes, meaning your employees will turn up to work and meetings on time while their car-bound counterparts are stuck in traffic.

Project an environmentally friendly image

• Promoting a cycle-friendly workplace can help you reduce your carbon footprint and project an environmentally friendly image for your business or organisation. As well as impressing clients and counterparts, this is something in which your employees can take pride and satisfaction. This is particularly important for Milennials, who will make up the bulk of the workforce in the coming decade.

Build your workplace’s “social capital”

• Healthy cycling participation rates drastically improve the livability and vitality of cities. By contributing to this trend, you are helping to turn your city into a cosmopolitan and desirable place to live, in turn attracting talented and creative people.

• The social networks that fellow cyclists naturally form, and their engagement with and knowledge of the city as cyclists, can in turn become resources for your business.

E-bikes ( or pedelecs), like normal bikes, come in all shapes and sizes – folding bikes, commuter bikes, townie style bikes, wheel kits to retrofit onto existing bikes and many more. Over the last few years the diversity of electric bikes has skyrocketed and riders can now choose from a very wide range which includes electric road bikes, mountain bikes and gravel bikes.

To be legal to ride on roads in Australia e-bikes have to comply with ACT regulations. ‘Motor-assisted pedal cycles’, which are not covered by this article, although still being bicycles, will power you without the need to pedal and are limited to 200 watts. Whereas, ‘E-Bikes’, which require pedalling to activate the motor, are limited to 250 watts. This is commonly expressed as 25 kph.

You might be thinking that 25 is slow, but experienced riders will tell you that a ride involving climbs and/or strong head winds is much more enjoyable when you can call on your e-bike to assist you. Most modern e-bikes use a lithium-ion battery system. If you are riding around town for a few hours you can probably recharge your battery using a main connected charger in a few hours.

However, the variables are many and as a result the size and nature of the battery, combined with the size of the rider and the type of riding occurring can all affect the battery. The size of the battery can vary dramatically in both shape and weight. For example, modern e-road bike batteries may only weigh a few kgs, whereas many city-style bikes have batteries weighing 10-15 kgs. This variation in battery sizes, combined with the tyre of electric motor being used, can vary the range of a single charge from around 60 km for a heavy e-city bike to anywhere up to 150kms on an expensive, efficient, light e-road bike.

E-bikes vary in quality and you get what you pay for from cheaply made e-bikes sold at places like Aldi, through to expensive bikes designed to allow riders to replace manual bikes with bikes that for all intents and purposes look and perform like a specialty bike with the added advantage of e support.

When this article was originally written several years ago it would have been true to note that the components on all e-bikes, regardless of price, mostly come out of the same factories in China or Taiwan. For example, Suzhou Bafang Motors produces around 1,000,000 e-bike motors a year which are exported (and re-branded) all over the world, have factories in China and the Netherlands and as such, like Shimano, have a hierarchy of models.

However, there is now an emerging cohort of specialty e-bikes being produced around the world. Whether they be road, mountain or gravel bikes, they are being produced using lightweight materials such as carbon and are utilising electric motors coming out of factories in places like the USA and Germany. Brands such as Specialized from the USA are mixing their production facilities using Taiwan/China for their cheaper models and using in-house development and production to produce limited numbers of their high-quality bikes. The pandemic raised the level of demand for e-bikes of all types and qualities and this has led to a shortage of supply, particularly at the high end. It was reported in early 2022 that the waiting time in Australia for a Specialized Creo e-road bike was more than 12 months.

When looking for an e-bike check: whether it’s designed for the Australian market – that is, does it meet Australian Transport Regulations about motor size; if there’s a reasonable warranty and back up service; if parts are available and at what price – replacement batteries can cost almost as much as a bike. If you are looking to purchase from a source that does not have an established relationship with known brands or the bike brand offered seems to be unknown, check that the seller’s reputation and look for reviews of the bike you are considering.

Be prepared to have to replace parts sooner or later and try to get an estimate as to the cost of items such as batteries, chains and chain wheels so that you are prepared when the time comes. Chains and chain wheels tend to stretch or wear out every 1600 km or so simply due to the extra force being applied to them by the actions of the electric motor. If buying an e-bike second hand be aware that the battery might be reaching the end of its life and be prepared to purchase a new one.

For some ideas of where an e-bike could take you and more information about choosing the right e-bike for you, check out this blog by one of our members.

Who rides e-bikes?

There’s no such thing as a typical e-bike customer but there are some common reasons why people choose e-bikes over normal bikes. The proliferation of types of e-bikes has broadened the reason people ride them. You will still commuters on them, but also:

• Parents are using them to take children to preschool;

• People with knee problems are being able to ride around Canberra on e-road bikes and climb hills without being hampered;

• Former mountain bikers are returning to the trails on e-mountain bikes;

• Riders are experimenting with the latest cycling fad of cross country riding using e-gravel bikes;

• Riders that like to join road tours are able to do so using e-bikes; and

• People who had retired from riding due to not being able to keep doing what they had always done, are now returning with e-bikes that provide the assistance they always needed.

People are becoming even more motivated to ride by economics; for example not having to pay exorbitant petrol prices and/or paying ever-growing parking fees. There is also a distinct group of riders buying folding e-bikes for use in their caravans and RVs as transportable transport.